We had our choice of a totally open train car, a car with a
cover but not sides, or an enclosed car with an open door and windows that
open. I chose for us and went for the enclosed car. Although the sun was out,
it was still chilly when the conductor announced “All aboard!” at 10 am. I did,
however, have the window open for the entire ride so I could take pictures. We
were comfortable with our jackets. The train didn’t go over any trestles, as
those had been too costly to maintain and the gorges had been filled in
instead, but we did travel along the side of a mountain. We saw the lodge pole
pines (the predominant tree of the area) at eye level and got a lesson on the
aspen trees (white bark with “eyes” where the lower branches had dropped off as
the tree grew).
After the train ride, we visited the National Mining Hall of
Fame and Museum, just a few blocks away from the train depot. Phillip was
excited to learn about rocks, but soon realized that there are a whole lot of
different kinds of rocks. I’ve never seen such a collection as at this museum.
We viewed extensive displays related to gold and silver mining, both examples
of minerals and detailed explanations of processes. In addition to displays,
the museum had dioramas and a mock-up of a mine, complete with life-sized miner
mannequins, which wound thru two rooms. We spent almost two hours in this
museum and I recommend it highly to anyone interested in rocks, geology, or
mining.
When we paid our admission to the museum, we noticed that
for a few dollars more, we could visit the site of the “Matchless Mine” and Baby
Doe Tabor’s house, just outside the town proper. I remembered learning about
this mine and Baby Doe in a US History class in College in 1975, so I paid for
the tour. After a drive about two miles from the museum, we arrived at the
location, but had to wait a few minutes for the next tour. Phillip panned for
gold while we waited, something he is actually getting fairly good at, even if
there’s rarely much gold in the trough that he pans in. He has learned the
process, but I doubt if we’ll make our fortune from his activities!
The Matchless Mine is the story of Horace Tabor and his
second wife, Elizabeth. Tabor made (and
lost) a fortune in the silver mines during Leadville’s boom days, becoming one
of the most famous of the Colorado Silver Kings. Tabor purchased the Matchless
Mine in 1879. For quite some time there
truly was no mine that was its “match” as it produced up to $2,000/day for
Tabor in high quality silver. Although the mine is actually full of water and
can’t be toured, the original rig and buildings were available to our tour.
The story of the Matchless Mine isn’t only about riches, it’s
also about how Tabor, still married to his first wife, fell in love with
Elizabeth McCourt Doe, (better known as “Baby Doe”), and in doing so, created
one of the most famous and publicized love triangles of the century. Horace (who did divorce his first wife) and
Baby Doe lived in luxury until the repeal of the Sherman Act in 1893, which
left them broke, struggling to hold on to their beloved Matchless Mine. Tabor
lost his entire $9,000,000+ fortune in less than a year. Although he desperately held on to his
precious Matchless as long as he could, he eventually lost that as well to
foreclosure. Appendicitis claimed his life in 1899 before his hope of buying
back the mine could reach fruition, leaving his wife, Baby Doe Tabor and their
two daughters, Silver Dollar and Lilly, flat broke on the streets of Denver.
Baby Doe actually went back to Leadville and the new owners of the Matchless
mine allowed her to live in the mine’s supply shack on the premises. She died
there in 1935. We toured the one-room building she lived in, restored to how it
was during her life.
After touring the mine, we decided to go ahead and try to
make it to Taos, New Mexico for the night. Even if it was late afternoon,
Phillip had only driven about twenty-five miles, so he was OK with the 200
miles we needed to go to reach Taos. Our route took us south in the central
part of Colorado. Storms were in the area, but our way ended up skirting them.
We did get cloudy skies (which is good, because the air conditioner of the SUV
is not very effective) that gave me some great photos:
When we entered New Mexico on US Highway 285, the sign
proclaimed “New Mexico: Land of Enchantment.” However, the terrain was flat and
covered with brush less than a foot tall. No cows, no productive fields, no
wild critters to photograph. The first houses we saw were run-down mobile homes
surrounded by abandoned cars and broken equipment. I asked Phillip if he was
enchanted, and he said “Nope.” Our first sights in New Mexico on the route we
took were not impressive.
The sun was setting as we approached Taos. There was a
spectacular sunset behind us, but I couldn’t get a good picture of it. We did
stop at the Rio Grande Gorge and I was able to get some pictures. This was an
impressive site, to see how much land had eroded so deeply by what was today a
small river. Several people had stopped and walked to the middle of the bridge to
take pictures, but with darkness quickly approaching, I just got a few shots
from the rest area next to the gorge. We found a hotel just after dark, a lucky
event as an annual festival was going on and the town was crowded with several
streets shut down to cars for the event.
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