A Montecristi is a hat, not a cigar, in Ecuador

After a very restful sleep (air conditioning, sea level, and cerveza will do it every time), we ate breakfast of scrambled eggs, croissants, juice, and instant coffee. We then trekked off for the bus station to make a trip to Montecristi, home of the most famous Panama hat makers. We walked along the Malecon (boardwalk, aka the street next to the ocean, several cities have one). We were early enough to see the fisherman (they were all men) bringing in their catch and selling it. In addition to the more organized area of the beach where the pick-up trucks, probably from the local restaurants, were parked awaiting the boats, we saw tuna being cut up on the rocks and sold to individuals. In the picture, the man in the middle is taking the side of the fish off for one of the other men. To the right, another of these impromptu fishmongers was cutting up and selling fish. You can’t get much fresher tuna than that!

The bus terminal was about a mile and a half from the hostal, but it was a pleasant walk. The terminal was hectic and crowded, but our bus was the only bright yellow one with Montecristi written all over it. It was a local bus, so the 7 mile trip took about 30 minutes. Once in Montecristi, we were approached by a man who asked if we were looking for hats. Although I had covered my Lonely Planet guidebook with brown paper, he motioned to it in my hand and said he worked for the man in that book. (So much for stealth touristing). He of course didn’t, but he did take us to three hat shops, including the one noted in the book. We didn’t see what we wanted at the first two, and at the third one, Phillip found a true superfino hat. However, the lady said the price was $700. Phillip said no, and when we left the shop, told the man that he, Phillip, wasn’t “loco en la cabeza.” We parted ways with the man at that point and found a shop on our own with Montecristi hats at a WAY better price than $700.  We did get a picture of a man making the hats, and of Phillip and I wearing them (Remind me to never steal shirts from Robin’s room again). Yes, we both bought a Panama hat. True Panama hats has are made in Ecuador, but got misnamed in the US because the workers on the Panama Canal wore them. The best are handmade from a specific fiber grown in Ecuador called toquilla, so this is something we could never buy at home.

The lady we bought the hats from recommended a restaurant to us, and sure enough, it was again delicious food. Fried fish that was tender, flaky, and fresh, with a seasoned light batter/breading. It wasn’t tuna today, but a white fish. The plate included rice, salad, avocado, and the fried plantains we are becoming fond of. Total for 2 plates and 2 sodas: $9.50. We could have split one plate and had plenty, but it was really tasty, so I’m glad we both got a plate. Once we returned to Manta, again on the colorful bus, Phillip wanted to look at construction projects as we walked back to the hotel, so we did walk off the big lunches. About 2 blocks off the ocean, Manta is all uphill, so we walked about 2-1/2  miles up and down the streets. As we got near the hotel, we were thirsty, so time for that cerveza. This time, we got grande cerverzas… a liter each (almost a quart of beer). Then back to the hostal to download the hundred or so pictures I took.

Should I tell you again that it is hot here? About 85 degrees, and sunny?